Postcards from Sardinia
A Sardinia Travel Guide
Sardinia had been at the top of my hit list for a while, so when Tom and I were looking for a last minute Euro trip I knew exactly where I wanted to go. We visited Sardinia for five days—and honesty, we haven’t stopped talking about it since. It wasn’t a trip we planned too tightly. Just a clinchè Fiat Punto rental, loads of saved destinations on my google maps, and a mission to find the best pasta on the island.
There’s something about Sardinia that feels quite secret, like it’s moving in it’s own flow - there’s definitely no rushing anybody! And of course this is all part of its charm which is very raw and quite frankly romantic. So here’s a rough guide to the kind of Sardinia we found; think €4 spritzes, clear water coves, and trattorias where the menu changes everyday. (If in doubt, always go for the fresh seafood pasta)
Here’s where we swam, wandered, ate, and stayed. A Sardinia that’s delicious, chic without trying and a little rough round the edges. A full guide, Woven Rosa-style.
getting around
You definitely need a mode of transport to be able to explore the island to its fullest. We opted for a hire a car over a scooter as some of our drives were over an hour long. I recommend a small car to help with parking because squeezing into small spaces should be listed as an Italian sport on this island.
Where to Stay
On such a large island you can’t see it all in five days, so we opted for two different locations as we wanted to get the most out of our trip, but also feel like we had time to relax in each location.
On arrival we headed North West and had a few nights near Alghero to explore the beautiful coveso that side of the island. We found a beautiful guest house Fattoria dei Piani, which felt like a green oasis fit with a pool, rustic tennis courts and even horses.
We then travelled to the East Coast for few nights in Dorgali where we stayed in a gorgeous family run bed and breakfast called Palazzo Cherchi which felt like a true Italian experience. A beautiful old building with the original floor tiles and ceiling designs in tact. Make sure you try the homemade cakes on the breakfast buffet, and make it up to the roof terrace for golden hour.
Where to swim
La Marinedda (North)
A beautiful and vibrant cove on the north of the island. Perfect for people watching, and hanging out with the locals. Make sure you sample some fresh fish and pasta at LL Cormorano which has incredible views of the whole cove.
Cala Tinnari (North)
Only reachable by foot or boat, this rust-red-pebbled beach was completely empty when we arrived at golden hour. The sea glows emerald and there’s something ancient about the landscape—raw and untouched. Bring a book. Stay until the sun dips.
Cala Fuili (East)
The water here is every shade of blue. We parked up on the roadside near Cala Gonone and hike an hour to get there. A beautiful cove with cliffs towering behind you. Theres no amenities or shade so make sure you bring provisions.
Cala Luna (East)
Take a small boat early from Cala Gonone and get here before anyone else. Limestone cliffs, white pebbles, and water that doesn’t look real. Heaven.
Where to Eat & Drink
Visit Tenute Sella & Mosca winery to sample Sardinias best grapes. A large estate, with a beautiful terrace and so many wines to try it’s hard not to try them all. You go for one and can easily stay all day!
Eat at Chiosco Monte Longu, a casual outside pizza bar popular with bikers with the best view of the east coast. Whats not to love.
We visited farm stay Corte Barisone and we were so glad we booked the day before when we saw the queues down the street. An authentic Italian trattoria with exceptional local food. They host one service a night and serve everyone the same set menu which is seasonal and always changing. A must in Dorgali!
Local deli’s & fruterias. One of the best things about travelling in Europe for us is all the delicious fresh produce. Some of the best food we ate were from local delis and bakeries; Italians sure do know how to make a mean sandwich.
*Disclaimer, as soon as I landed in Sardinia I was on a mission to find the best pasta on the island. And well the mission was flawed, because I soon realised Sardinians make bloody terrific pasta and it’s simply impossible to choose. A fun field trip none the less - but one thing I did learn, when in doubt, always order the fresh seafood pasta.
Things to do
Take a boat from Cala Gonone to visit the beautiful beaches down the east coast that you can only visit by boat. The water is so blue and just incredible! Take an organised trip or if you’re feeling adventurous you can hire your own boat for €250. Make sure you take a snorkel mask, so many fishies to see!
The owners (mother and son duo) of guest house Fattoria dei Piani host a pasta evening where they teach you how to make different pasta shapes and then cook you up a storm at the end. All served with local wine from the winery down the road - delish!
Visit the old town in Alghero, so many beautiful small streets with so many hidden cafes, delis and wine bars. Great for an afternoon of exploring.
